BANGALORE
FOOD
Saaru
(spicy liquid to be mixed with rice)
Saaru
is the most common delicacy of Karnataka. The process of making
saaru consists of two distinct phases.
1. Making the powder (which is done once in several months)
2.
Making Saaru using this powder (which is a daily routine, simpler
too)
Making
the powder:
Saarina pudi (the Saaru powder) has three separate groups of ingredients
which are fried and powdered separately, later mixed together.
I.
Kothumbari beeja (dhaniya, coriander seeds) and red chilies in equal
quantities by volume. Take 200 gms each of the two and fry them
in a Pan (called BaNale' in Kannada) with a few drops of oil. Use
two long spoons at diagonally opposite ends, lift and drop the ingredients
at regular intervals. Use both spoons/ladels to turn around the
ingredients regularly. Use low fire and fry slowly until there is
a distinct smell with the red chilies turn very shiny.
Stop just as it starts to smoke. Takeout and put in a plate for
cooling.
II.
2 teaspoons each of mustard seeds (called Saasuve'in Kannada) Menthya
(methi seeds ), whole black pepper (called MeNasu in Kannada), Jeerige
(Jeera, cumin seeds), Kuskus, white poppy seeds (called Gasagase'
), Fry these with a teaspoon of oil, on slow fire. Continue till
the mustard seeds and Jeera start to split and turn brown.Take out
and put in a plate for cooling.
III.
Two handfuls of curry leaves(Kari-bevina soppu ), one-two small
pieces
of Dalchinni chekke, a marble sized Asafoetida (Hingu) or half a
teaspoonof its powder Hing, half teaspoon of turmeric powder (called
Arishina). Wash and dry the Karibevina soppu and put it at the end;
turnaround for a minute or two and switch off. Put the Arishina
after switching off and allow it to cool in thePan itself.
Using
a dry grinder, powder ingredients of I, take out the powder. Powder
the ingredients of III and then put the powder from I. Turn in the
grinder for a few minutes for them to mix. Take out the ingredients.
Powder the ingredients of II, put the mixed powder from III and
I, continue to turn till the whole mixture mixes uniformly. The
final powder will have a deep maroon (blackish brick red) colour
and a fine flavour. Remember that in the first one-two days the
hotness (khara, teekha, chili hot ) of the mixture is felt, but
will mellow down within a week. Therefore, wait before you make
minor changes to the powder (adding fried red chilies to increase
or add fried dhaniya seeds to decrease the "spiciness").
The powder can be stored in a glass jar for about an year. With
time the flavour reduces, so it is recommended normally for 6 month
storage.
Making
the Saaru
First boil 2-3 tablespoons of Tovar lentil (Togari BeLe' tovar daal
) which is best done in a pressure cooker. In India, the best variety
of Togari BeLe' (Tovar dal) is grown in Amaravathi dist, Maharashtra.
It can also be done quickly by adding more water and putting it
in a rice cooker for 20-30 minutes.
After this is done, the dal is well cooked and can be mashed (some
prefer it
unmashed). Add 1/2 to 3/4 of salt (to taste), add 1-2 glasses of
water and stir well. Add 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon of the Saarina pudi
(powder). At this point, it is common to cut a tomato and add (though
not essential). Allow it to boil on low fire for at least 10 minutes.
Take a small marble sized HuNise' HaNNu (PuLi, tamarind) and soak
it in water for 5-10 minutes. Then squeeze it well, take out the
waste (pith) and pour in the brownish solution to saaru. Put in
a whole stem (8-10 leaves) of fresh Karibena soppu (curry leaves).
For seasoning put a spoon of ghee into a steel ladel heat on low
fire, put in 1/2 teaspoon of mustard and wait till they split. Put
in a pinch of asafetida or one or two pieces of Garlic peeled. Put
in the oggaraNe and also put in freshly chopped green coriander
leaves.
The Saaru is normally the first item to go with rice. The rice must
be a little soft to mix well with Saaru. A spoon of ghee or melted
butter. It is also common to drink the top watery part of Saaru
with meals. Its fine flavour is enhanced if it is hot and just a
drop of ghee is put in before drinking. A great favourite among
children is Saaru-Anna (Saaru+rice) which is mild yet quite nutrious
due to the Lentil which provides protein.
Instead of tomato, it is common to use finely cut onions. Also used
are green beans (called HuraLi Kaayi) broken into three-four pieces.
However, quite a few unbroken lentils go well with saaru. The most
common of these is Avare' KaaLu (Lilva) which is a raging favourite
in Karnataka (Jan-March is its season). Also HuruLi (horse gram
which is a flat bean and is brick red in colour) goes well with
saaru and is a great favourite in the rainy season.
Another popular item is soppina saaru (spinach saaru) which uses
either menthyada soppu (green methi leaves) or some typical varieties
of greens such as Dantina soppu, Honagone'soppu (sorry equivalents
in other languages not known). Any vegetable or whole grain needs
to be cooked in saaru before the tamarind water is put in. The acidic
nature of tamarind slows down the cooking rate. Not many vegetables
go well with Saaru, which on its own right is a very nice dish both
as a soup and as something to go with rice. If only needed as a
soup, there is no need to put Tuvar daal, simply cook a tomato and
follow rest of the procedure.
(Courtesy:
K. Raghunandana)
