Koshy's
The Pride of Bangalore
on St. Mark's Road A
few dining places have stood the march of time, where the old and the brash new
Gen X strike a perfect harmony as they gossip or catch up with the latest happenings
over a cuppa. At Koshys the roll call of honour have seen the
likes of great Indian Presidents, Prime ministers, and chief ministers besides
catering to ceremonies held in honour of visiting Marshal Tito, Nikita Khrushchev,
HH Queen Elizabeth II and to the cast of 20h century Fox filming unit to name
a few. The old world charm of the wood panels, sturdy chairs, line drawings of
Bangalore of yore blends unobtrusively with the zany granite pillars and colourful
table cloths. Started in the 1940 as a bakery outlet it gave place in 1952-53,
to the Parade Café, where seasoned and budding politicians, journalists,
professors, lawyers, business men, romancing couples holding hands had their snacks
and Koffee/Tea, lunch or dinner. News gains momentum here and at times many a
important decisions are made here. 50 years of glorious service and the patronage
doesnt seem to be waning as the AC Jewel Box restaurant was added 6 years
ago thereby segregating those who have a fondness for their tobacco from those
who do not. This is still a rendezvous for stolen moments, nostalgic recalls,
conferences, not forgetting the tourists. Whenever in the vicinity Id dash
here for the bread toast with scrambled eggs and the ubiquitous Koffee to revive
my spirits though the Vegetable biryani is a big disappointment.
There
is a dance floor which probably is used at the time of X mas and for heralding
the New Year. The adjoining department store stocks all organic products and their
oven fresh bakery products are readily grabbed by the diners as is their vitamin
enriched bread that still retains the flavour of the English tradition of bread
making.
We are charmed
by Mr.Prem Koshy, the third generation restaurateur. Very articulate, his stints
abroad have helped in bringing the freshness and innovativeness of the new generation
in management and working on the goodwill of the earlier generations ensuring
that Koshys is a happening place. He leads us to the table in style and
the best of the Koshy fare is ordered. Leaving us to relish the Fruit Punch, Prem
makes his way to the kitchen, maybe to give that final touch to one or two dishes.
As we sip, we are enchanted with the amalgamated fruity richness of a variety
of seasonal fruits. In a long stemmed glass the pink rusty coloured punch was
perfect for a hot afternoon though we were ensconced in cool confines.
He
tells us to try the combo of rice and dhal with stir fried kerala style aloo Gobi.
Each vegetable was juicy and well cooked though the gleaming oil was the handiwork
of Prem to give a whacky taste to compensate for the plain dhal when he dashed
into the kitchen. This simple fare brought memories of mums swadist food.
The separated rice grains had gracefully lengthened to their maximum and jelled
with the dhal effortlessly. The spinach bake was scrumptious. It takes a lot of
guts to make the bake with greens as it has to be properly cleaned. The white
sauce and cheese were in the right proportion. The bake should have been given
an exotic name. (Nature peep bake-Howazzat?).After a long time I enjoyed the Avial
in Malabar style as the Mangalore version has dollops of coconut oil. There was
no generosity of coconut masala too. The Pork Fry cooked the Malabar way was a
nice dry preparation that was a fitting accompaniment to the rice and dhal. Some
like it hard but the soft concoction was done well.
The
Fish Fry was a lovely fillet of fresh
sear fish; well marinated with no overbearing masalas.The tandoori chicken kebabs
were juicy chunks and the chicken pilaf was good. Rounding this well thought meal
was the chocolate mousse. Wickedly inviting the dark brown and light dessert was
the signature item to the Koshys food and hospitality. I am taken aback
when Prem tells me that around 891 dishes come out from their kitchen and the
dishes have evolved in response to customers preference. A meal for two
without drinks hardly costs Rs 300/=.
With
pride Prem shows us their visitors/guest book maintained since 1963, and notings
of Maharani Gayatri Devi, Arundhati Roy, Tim Sebastian, Prannoy Roy, Anju Bobby
George, Anita Paff, the grand daughter of Subhas Chandra Bose etc boldly stare
at me.
A sonnet
by one Vijay Sai scrawled on 21.06.06 echoes the essence of Koshys.
Fish
and Chips it reads outside
Chips and fish
you savour by the tide
Beer
and beef could make a complete meal
Pork
and smiles would add to the deal
An
aid that helps track the history of food
In
a city that boasts of culture old and new
When
your senses urge for that cup of tea
Turn
around the corner youll find KOSHYS
(With support from Sunil Baindoor)
If
you have visited Koshy's recently and would like to comment on its quality of
food or anything about the restaurant, please rate this restaurant
here
Priya
writes - This is an old no-frills place whcih serves fantastic food. There is
the smoke filled older side and the newer AC side(which is always empty). I always
go to the older side since that reminds of the true Bangalore I had left many
years ago.
Their Sunday Appams and Stew combo are one of the best I have ever
had. The omelette/Toast/Sausages are pretty good. Coffee is to die for. Prem Koshy
is also a fellow Texan and was nice enough to send for a snack for my little one
while we were waiting for our order. Their Kheema curry Rice is also good. A lot
of their food reminds me of home cooking.
Even their baked goods like their
whole-wheat bread, plum cake, sweet and salt biscuits are good.
Koshy\'s is
quintessential Bangalore and I would go back again and again provided their quality
doesnt change!